SRX8

Endurance race had been held in the rain. Became a muddy ball. Then I have to rebuild my DNX8. My DNX8 has some isuues in the race. Front lower hinge pin through rear end bush. Why it was happened? It's old one? New chassis is more flexible? And steering linkage poped out. For flexibility I added torque rod. And I replace ball end to RC8 and losi.  These have more durability than original. And add tapered washer. Steering servo return to airtronics. It has more speed with super response mode. 

DNX8 wing mount holder likes as MP9. But MP9 has two point connection holes. One is for wing stay,one is for chassis brace. DNX8 chassis brace connect on wing stay only. Then rear chassis has flexibility. Sometimes clutch bell touched chassis, stopping engine. Maybe It needs engine mount plate. The issue is not only DNX8 but also MP9. After modified brace connecting and replaced M2C,never touch bell . But it lost stable of rear. I want to tiger throttle early out of corner. And want to break rear on  best timing and don't lost traction. Now rear break late then it makes spin. I try to put 40g weight on rear. Perfect fit Mugen weight for M2C chassis screw hole. I expected rear traction up. This is HB D815 High wing mount. Compare with normal height. It will take more roll on cornering. I put wing mount on shock stay. I expect rear break early. New red sway bar come. 2.8mm sway bar is 0.1mm large diameter than...

I checked rear differential gear mesh. After put off drive shaft, rotated pinion gear with fingertips. Putting off driveshaft is important. Then I could find little heavy gear mesh. It comes from diff ring gear. I wrote mark with white pen at hard meshed point. After that I shaved ring gear with dremel.

Once I completed prep. But I remember about rear stiffener  mount. I forgot under lock nut putting. I shaved little on bulkhead at under the mount for making space. I put another side too. I have perfect durability for rear stuffer. I bought Kyosho white exhaust pipe. I put on thermal compression tube on the mouth. White tube is large diameter. Then warry about pop out. And I am painting new body shell. It's JConcept silencer for MP9.

I replaced rear diff drive cup. First I used Xray drive shaft. Xray spring steal is harder than cup. Front cup is not so. Mugen shaft pin and cup are same hardness. Trifecta wing are mounted. I tried some types wing. Long rear arm car likes low mounted wing. Especially trifecta make easy breaking rear on the out of corner. I like policabonade wing but it has no durability.

It's  Xray front suspension arm. It is bended little. I try to change Mugen. Mugen arm Size and shape is complete same as Durango. But on full bottom,down stop screw mount hits to drive cup. Then I shaved it by dremel. M2C chassis has two screw holes under the drive universal. Original chassis has no holes at the area. Why is there holes? Probably these are for mounting weights. Where is weight? I replaced fuel tube. For endurance race I want to avoid fuel tube from thermal of exhaust pipe. Shock o rings are replaced new one. O ring should be replaced every two times running day long. And should rub oring grease on the mouth of shaft before insert oring. It's for don't leaking oil. I changed piston from 1.5x5 to 1.3x8 for low grip surface. I use same oil 42.5 wt before but it effects softer. It's new Kyosho boots. It becomes straight type. I add connection switch for trance ponter. We have to change pon...

I maintained frontend. FF suspension holder was bended by crash. But front suspension arm didn't receive damage. I repaired it with hammer. But it is little bended yet.  I order new one to AMain. It'll be derived the day before race. These are front arms. Xray,Durango,Mugen. Xray is made by soft material. Then arm didn't get damages. Mugen arm hinge pin holes are separated. Then hinge pin couldn't move smoothly. I through 4.1mm drill teeth. 

I missed to select throttle linkage nut. I used shock piston nut. It is 2.2 mm diameter. Corrected size is 2mm. Finally it never loose throttle screw. And I change to set switch post inside little. For avoiding brake switch on clash. Rear stefner mount modify is completed.  Probably rear bulkhead screw hole will be foolish. I can't get bulkhead yet on A main.

On June our track will be held 3 hour endurance race. One team has three mates. Driver rotate with two tank run. Then I want to improve more durability. First I change wing mount holder mounting. I changed the place back hole. And I cut the carbon plate for that. Steering screw loosen twice that black head for right side only. I missed lock nut selecting. It has to select low height nut. Front right drive shaft is vented again. That's cause the issue too. Steering servo mount screw loosen. Provably new KO sarvo has more trque. I add one post with long screw on buttery box rear end. Chassis is shaved at rearend. It has 2 mm or 1.5 mm. The I order M2C to AMain. RC tech mate use the chassis. It makes rear traction be strong. I am interested in end guard. Is is flat under the chassis ? I don't like chassis guard popping up under the chassis. If flat type was, I like this. The guard plate made by steel. Then it incre...

Yesterday I went to track. I put off rear mad guard then a little screw jump into between drive cup and under suspension arm. I can't find it on the track. I will have to put on mud guard. I try thick diff setting 10k,10k,5k. It's not bad. But I used Kyosho center diff then it effects more thick compared with front diff. It makes push under. I will try 10k,8k,5k next run.

Center rear driveshaft is MP9. Now the parts become more durable than TKI3. Rear driveshaft is MBX7R rear universal. Rear is shorter than front. I used rear universal for front. On the crash the universal pop out. At the time the univ was vented. Then I replaced one. Now I use MBX7R front universal for front. I replaced side guards. Front end screw hole become foolish. When front end hit somethings the screw hole receive power. I put lock nut over the hole. I hate sanding mud between there. I rub shoe goo among there.

Rear wing mount was broken on last run. Then rear traction was lost. I glued with CA. I want to buy the parts. It is on bulkhead set. But the parts is out of stock at AMain for a month. Rear suspension arm too. Probably these will are not provided. Then I make a carbon plate. I shave front side. It is for vertical set. I bought IFW445 MP9 wing stay mount. Left side screw is set on same position. Right side is set with another hole. I through 4mm pipe into the rod end hole for 3mm screw. I adjust best position. It completed replacing wing mount holder. I will try to confirm durability next run.